Break the lug nuts lose but do not remove them from the tires. Raise and support the truck with the jack and jack stands. Make sure the truck is resting on the jack stands and it does not rock back and forth. Remove the lung nuts from the wheels and remove the tires.
Once the tires are removed inspect the brake hoses and the calipers for cracks, wear, or other damage. The Calipers are held in place by 2 bolts. They may us a socket or a torx bit. (Normally a T-15 or t-20.) It varies on fords. I have seen both on their trucks. Loosen and remove the support bolts. With a small flat blade screw driver gently pry the caliper off the rotor (Make sure you do not scar, gouge, or damage the caliper or rotor in this process. The caliper should pull out of the support fairly easy. Next remove the outer pad from the caliper. With the old pad still in place use the C clamp to compress the piston on the caliper. You need to compress the piston in to the caliper other wise the new pads will not fit back around the rotor on the truck. For best results and to keep from damaging the control valve on the ABS Crack the bleeder valve on the caliper. Remove the inner pad after the piston is fully compressed.
Once the caliper has been compressed close the bleeder valve and use the wire or the hanger to help support the caliper, do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose. With the caliper supported and out of the way inspect your calipers for groves, glazing, burn marks, or uneven ware. Also take this time to inspect the pads that have been removed for uneven wear as well.
For the best possible brake job and to give you the best stopping power, pull the rotors and take then down to the auto parts store and have then turned. This takes care of a number of things that can cause poor performance from brakes. It removes the glaze from the surface, it true檚 the rotor (All rotors warp no matter how you drive) and it also gives a good clean surface for the brakes to mate too.
Once you get the rotors back from the auto parts store (Normally takes about an hour or two to complete the turning.) it's time to reassemble the system. a few things you need to do prior to reassembly is clean up the contact surfaces of the caliper and the mounting bracket also to use the brake cleaner to remove any grease, dirt, or metal filings that may have been left over from the machining process. Use some paper towels to wipe away the excess brake cleaner, install the rotors on to the car.
Next you need to install the calipers, these are free floating calipers and need to have a good clean lubricated surface to operate correctly. Using some sand paper or a wire brush remove any rust on any of the mating surfaces for the caliper and the mounting bracket. It doesn't need to be perfect but the cleaner you can get it the better. once the surface it cleaned up use a little bit or grease and apply it to both the mating surface of the caliper and the mounting bracket (We will some times use some small strips of Teflon to help them glide a little better but you do not need to do this. Install the new pads remove the caliper from the hanger and reinstall the caliper on to the car. You will need to lube the bolts as they help the caliper move freely as well. Install the bolts and tighten to hold the caliper in place.
Once the pads and the calipers have been installed and everything is sitting how it should, you will want to pump the breaks to help seat the pads against the rotors. (Starting the car will help as it uses the power break booster to help seat the brakes.) Check the pedal for feel. If they are a little spongy, this is likely because you opened the bleeder valve, you need to have some one pump the brakes while you bleed the system out. The best way to complete this is to start at the wheel that is farthest from the driver檚 seat, which would be the passenger rear wheel. Have your assistant pump the brakes and hold them, you crack the bleeder valve and look for air bubbles. If you see none lock the bleeder valve and move to the next wheel. Follow this process until you have done all the wheels working from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel to the driver.
Once you have completed the bleeding process put the wheels back on. Install the lug nuts and tighten then while still on the jack stands. Lower the car and then recheck the wheel lugs. Top off the brake fluid and then take the truck out for a test drive. Start out slow and do not get in to the brakes. They need time to seat and break in the new surface. You truck should stop just as well as it did when you purchased the car.
Hope this helps and please contact me if you have any more questions.How do i change my brake pads on my 2000 ford ranger?just go to servicing center and ask them to change the breaksHow do i change my brake pads on my 2000 ford ranger?On a 2000 Ranger, assuming you have the front of the truck jacked up with the wheels removed, you need a 13mm socket or wrench to remove the two brake caliper bolts. Once the caliper is removed, hang the caliper with a piece of coat hanger, or something else suitable. You will need a 1/2%26quot; drive 15mm socket and johnson bar to remove both of the caliper bracket bolts. Once removed, install the new anti-rattle clips and new brake pads onto the caliper bracket making sure the appropriate brake pads with the wear indicator tab on the INBOARD side of the bracket. Depending on whether your truck is 4x4, or 4x2, the brake rotors just %26quot;knock off%26quot; if it's 4x4. If it's 4x2, you will need to remove the center dust cap, and the cotter pin, as well as the floating bearing retaining nut in order to remove the rotor. The procedure is extensive for 4x2, so if you want further information, you can e-mail me, and I'll be happy to help you out. Hope this helps.
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